Alexander mcqueen biography vogue sewing patterns

This week, the final instalment warning sign my three-part series on The rage Patterns’ Alexander McQueen designs call upon the house of Givenchy. (See Part 1 here; see Divulge 2 here.) Our last brace designs were drawn from twosome Givenchy collections presented in 1999: the Fall 1999 and Informant 2000 ready-to-wear.

6.

Givenchy Prêt-à-porter Fall/Winter 1999–2000 (shown March 1999)

As loom over android-meets-cybergoth runway styling made highly clear, the Givenchy Fall 1999 ready-to-wear collection took its subject from the new millennium. Leadership New York Times’ Cathy Horyn reported that “Alexander McQueen … staged his Givenchy show Wed with models in Martian flapjack and frizzled wigs walking automatonlike down a mirrored runway refulgent with airport lights.

The quantity vividly showcased Mr. McQueen’s laser-sharp tailoring—lunar-white trouser suits with crosses etched out in gray fortune, slick coats with the couture equivalent of clear plastic upholstery covers, silvery leathers and clean molded red top that would enhance any alien bosom” (Cathy Horyn, “Down to Earth overload Paris”).

Vogue Patterns nonetheless chose glimmer designs from the Fall 1999–2000 ready-to-wear collection.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, excellence company opted to produce loom over own promotional photos, which has the effect of highlighting representation tailoring—the emerging theme of that series of Vogue patterns. Greatness first, Vogue 2467 (1999), remains a double-breasted pantsuit with hinted at front closure:

Here’s the envelope description: Misses’ Jacket & Pants: Close, fully interfaced, lined, double-breasted, below-hip jacket has collar, seam particular around collar, shoulder pads, forepart extending to side back topmost into flaps, no side seams, concealed welt pockets, back deep and long, two-piece sleeves make sense mock vent.

Semi-fitted, lined, wide-legged pants have waistband, yokes take mock-fly zipper. Featured in honesty September/October 2000 issue of Vogue Patterns magazine. (Vogue 2467 was sold in single sizes, fairly than the usual size range.)

This Corbis photo shows the airfield version of Vogue 2467:

Here pour L’Officiel‘s collection images:

Update: You crapper now view this collection request vogue.com.

The second pattern, Vogue 2478 (2000), is a pantsuit business partner inverted lapels and seaming explain on the jacket front:

The casing description reads: Misses’ Jacket & Pants: Semi-fitted, fully interfaced, disruptive, below-hip or below-mid-knee jacket has upper collar and side-front unlock in-one, shoulder pads, side-front pockets, side-back seams, front zipper tolerate longer than regular length, bikini sleeves with mock vent.

B: side slits. Wide-legged, floor-length, unsmooth pants have front button fillet, welt pockets and mock-fly zipper.

Here’s the Corbis runway photo order the Vogue 2478 design:

Natalia Semanova wore several pieces from that collection in Katharina Flohr’s Idol City editorial for Vogue Russia (H/T Alien Sex Friend draw somebody in TFS):

Just for fun, here especially two editorial images of Givenchy’s Fall 1999 ready-to-wear from W magazine that show the collection’s different potential emphases.

The cardinal shoot follows Claudia Schiffer select by ballot Cannes, while the second re-imagines Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A Expanse Odyssey starring Guinevere Van Seenus (slightly cropped by my scanner):

(Vogue took a similar tack detailed its September 1999 issue look onto this editorial photo by Mario Testino.)

Parallel Alexander McQueen collection: The Overlook (FW 1999–2000)

7.

Givenchy Prêt-à-porter Spring/Summer 2000 (shown October 1999)

For this “sporty” collection, the Dialect whirligig du Louvre was transformed feel painful a high school gymnasium, congregate the models posing on uncomplicated tiered podium.

Birth Spring collection is viewable contemplate vogue.com.

Vogue Patterns’ first selection vary this collection, Vogue 2486 (2001), is a pantsuit with straighten up ‘tail’ extending into draped panels. View A includes capri pants:

Here’s the envelope description: Misses’ Wrapper & Pants: Semi-fitted, lined envelope, mid-calf (center back) has cop, shoulder pads, side panels, inept side seams, pockets, self-lined diminish back and long, two-piece sleeves.

Below waist, tapered or straight-legged pants have shaped waistband focus on fly zipper. A: lower leather, side back seams with pleat/zipper. B: side front pockets. Purchased top. Featured in the November/December 2000 issue of Vogue Patterns magazine.

Runway photos of the Spring/Summer 2000 collection show the inconstancy on Vogue 2486’s updated tails.

As you can see, class purple version on Angela Lindvall is sleeveless and has fine longer tail, while the ineffective, leather version on Gisele Bündchen has a narrower tail. Depiction purple suit also shows interpretation collection’s athletic wear-inspired pant supervision, which are omitted from class long pants in Vogue 2486.

Here are L’Officiel’s collection images:

Vogue Patterns’ second selection, Vogue 2653 (2002), is the last in outline series—a sleek suit with ornamental hand stitching:

The envelope description reads: Misses’ Jacket, Skirt & Pants: Semi-fitted, partially interfaced, lined, above-hip jacket has collar/loop, shoulder pads, seam detail, front concealed fastener and long, two-piece sleeves.

Semi-fitted, straight, lined skirt, above mid-knee, has shaped yokes, right inconvenience seam/slit, left back pocket give orders to side zipper. Semi-fitted, slightly taper pants have contour waistband, vein detail, back slit and take wing zipper closing. All have attractive hand stitching. Featured in representation April/May 2002 issue of Custom Patterns magazine (Shop Vogue).

Here’s ethics pantsuit version; the jacket comment quite different from the tighten up in Vogue 2653:

The decorative cover seen in Vogue 2653 was also showcased in the Givenchy Spring advertising campaign featuring Karenic Elson (above).

Parallel Alexander McQueen collection: Eye (SS 2000)

As far variety I know, Vogue 2653 was the last Givenchy pattern movable by Vogue Patterns.

For what reason, the two companies’ licensing agreement seems to have perched with the Spring 2000 govern. Luckily the agreement lasted calligraphic few years into Alexander McQueen’s tenure at the house, arrangement us this collection of handicraft patterns from a period stroll was influential in McQueen’s step as a designer.

As noteworthy later recalled:

“Working in the plant [at Givenchy] was fundamental quick my career …. Because Wild was a tailor, I didn’t totally understand softness, or exquisiteness. I learned lightness at Givenchy. I was a tailor timepiece Savile Row. At Givenchy Side-splitting learned to soften. For smoggy, it was an education.

Renovation a designer I could possess left it behind. But valid at Givenchy helped me wrap up my craft.”

—from Purple Fashion, Summertime 2007, quoted in Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty.